Tuesday, 25 February 2014

Make 3 tubes - poltam skirt with lining

How to sew pleated skirt

UPDATE: Video tutorial for this is available here -  pleated poltam skirt video tutorial - No lining

Hi All, Lets now start to sew the poltam skirt. Its very much like the phus phus skirt tubes  except that this has lining and the lining has no gathers in front and slightly elasticised back for a no bulk look.  We will be making 3 tubes and marking the center and quarter points.

Make sure you have 6 fabric pieces before you start (2 lining, 2 skirt, 1 front waistband and 1 back waistband)

 1. Pin shiny side of the interface to the wrong side of front waistband to leave seam allowance distance all around.
 How to apply interfacing to waistband
2. Iron interface on. I do not move the iron as it misplaces the interface, just keep it on the interface and lift to move it.
Check if interfacing is stuck properly
3. Make sure the interface is ironed well by trying to list the corners.

4. This step is optional only if you are using slippery fabric like viscose, rayon, silk. I'm using rayon here. Spray starch on the edges of all fabric pieces (4)  and iron. The edges must now stiffen. 4 here and not 6 since the lining I have used is cotton and doesn't need starch.
5. Fold the front waistband in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Repeat same from back waistband.

6. Pin right sides together on the edges of the waistband at the shorter side (there is no top or bottom yet).
Pin right sides together for skirt
 7. Pin right sides together for the skirt pieces at the side seams.
 8. Pin right sides together for the lining pieces right sides together.

9. Note that the trapezium lining piece will the longer than the rectangle as you are attaching the the diagonal end to the straight end. I just trim it when I'm hemming the skirt.
10. Before we can start sewing there is one important step:
a. If front skirt lining is longer than front waistband - No problem - we can give a small tuck inside no one can notice it or you can take in more of the side seams for the front skirt lining when sewing.
b. both are equal - best
c. Front skirt lining is less than front waistband - problem - the side seams will not align when sewing. The way I do it is to take in less than the seam allowance for the lining to make it equal.

11. Set the machine to straight stitch normal stitch length and sew along the pinned fabrics ( all 3 tubes)
12. Trim the seam allowance. I trimmed from 2 cm to 1 cm.
13. Set the machine to zig zag stitch or use a serger if you have one to finish off the seams.
14. Finish the seams. I like to both separately.
15. Finished seams.

 16. Press on top of the stitched line for all 3 tubes.
 17. Wear the tubes onto the ironing board and press open the seams.
Press seams flat

18. A close up of the seams. The tubes are now ready to be attached.
 19. This is skirt lining. The top shorter width is the top of the skirt.

 10. The front waistband is the shorter width.
21. There is front or back or top or bottom of the skirt. You can choose one of the open sides as top.

22. Mark center and quarter points
a. Skirt : Mark center and quarter points front and back.It doesn't have to be exact. I just fold fabric in half and then in quarter and mark the points.
b. Lining: the shorter side of trapezium is the top side. Mark center and quarter points on front and back.
c. Waistband: Choose one open side as the top. Mark center and quarter points front and back.
We are now ready to attach the pieces together.


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