UPDATE: Video tutorial for this is available here - pleated poltam skirt video tutorial - No lining
Hi All, Lets now start to sew the poltam skirt. Its very much like the phus phus skirt tubes except that this has lining and the lining has no gathers in front and slightly elasticised back for a no bulk look. We will be making 3 tubes and marking the center and quarter points.
Make sure you have 6 fabric pieces before you start (2 lining, 2 skirt, 1 front waistband and 1 back waistband)
seam allowance distance all around.
4. This step is optional only if you are using slippery fabric like viscose, rayon, silk. I'm using rayon here. Spray starch on the edges of all fabric pieces (4) and iron. The edges must now stiffen. 4 here and not 6 since the lining I have used is cotton and doesn't need starch.
6. Pin right sides together on the edges of the waistband at the shorter side (there is no top or bottom yet).
9. Note that the trapezium lining piece will the longer than the rectangle as you are attaching the the diagonal end to the straight end. I just trim it when I'm hemming the skirt.
a. If front skirt lining is longer than front waistband - No problem - we can give a small tuck inside no one can notice it or you can take in more of the side seams for the front skirt lining when sewing.
b. both are equal - best
c. Front skirt lining is less than front waistband - problem - the side seams will not align when sewing. The way I do it is to take in less than the seam allowance for the lining to make it equal.
11. Set the machine to straight stitch normal stitch length and sew along the pinned fabrics ( all 3 tubes)
18. A close up of the seams. The tubes are now ready to be attached.
19. This is skirt lining. The top shorter width is the top of the skirt.
22. Mark center and quarter points
a. Skirt : Mark center and quarter points front and back.It doesn't have to be exact. I just fold fabric in half and then in quarter and mark the points.
b. Lining: the shorter side of trapezium is the top side. Mark center and quarter points on front and back.
c. Waistband: Choose one open side as the top. Mark center and quarter points front and back.
We are now ready to attach the pieces together.