Tuesday, 4 August 2015

Vionett - Queen of bias; where did I go wrong

I know what is bias. I've closely seen how cloth is hand woven, done it myself on the loom. My husband comes from Paramakudi where the main source of income is hand weaving.
When you see how cloth is woven you understand how bias works, why there is no stretch on lengthwise grain and some on cross and lots on bias. A representation is below

What is bias, cross wise grain and lengthwise grain

What is bias, cross grain and lengthwise grain


I made a bias skirt (self drafted) on muslin and it looked great, well almost..

Self drafted Bias skirt

Self drafted bias skirt

DIY skirt


I used the same pattern and made the same using faux suede and everything went downhill.. I did staystitch immediately after cutting, no idea how it stretched out.

Bias Skirt Stretch

Any help?

Bias skirt stretched out issue

Bias waist stretched out

I've been learning a lot about bias ever since I made the gathered circle skirt for my daughter -

gathered circle skirt

You can see on the sides how it has stretched out. One things for sure - whoever said circle skirts are easy are just lying.

An excellent video here on bias -
How much gravity has to do with bias - Its such an interesting watch .
We would think of bias as given, but so much thought has gone into it before it has come into textbooks

Madeleine Vionnet- Queen of bias cut - inspiration for designers like Chanel, Lagerfield, Valentino








And here is an excellent file for keeps on bias. A little over the head for me at the moment for its for keeps.. slowly one I'll get the grips to it -

45 degree magic 

Enjoy!
Preethi.


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Saturday, 1 August 2015

Self drafted Bias Skirt - scary!!

Bias is something that always scares me... My first experience was the gathered circle skirt I made for my daughter.

You can see below at the front how it is stretched out.
Gathered circle skirt

Here again at the side you can see how it is stretched out.

pom pom skirt
All over the internet there is circle skirt as a simple skirt- but seriously how ? How can one understand bias and its handling.  I think skirts to start with are simple gathered skirts.

I've made a bias skirt pattern for myself and made it out of calico, this calico is bit thick so the fall is not very apparant. Hopefully the faux suede will do a good fall.

self drafted bias skirt

self drafted bias skirt front

The material has a great fall, so wait and see..To test the fall - you can see this post to buy a drapey fabric.
faux suede fabric






Enjoy your weekend :)
Preethi

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Thursday, 30 July 2015

Conquered the invisble zipper

Ahhh!! Finally conquered the zipper..
Do you dread the invisible zipper or any zipper? I DID. Not anymore
Best way to insert invisible zipper


I had so many questions -

Invisible Zipper Issues

Which way to place the zipper?
Do I need to iron my zipper?
If so, what setting?
Which foot to use? Worst my machine doesnt even support the invisible zipper foot.
Use tape or pins?
Baste?
Can't get close enough. What to do?
The seams at waist don't match up, what to do?
The neck now is one up one down, what to do?
Why is the invisble zipper visible from the correct side?
Ok, I know the zipper, what about facing?


I was once at this stage - Zipper foot not working - The needle went straight down the zipper teeth.



And then at this -
Invisible zipper mistakes


where I got the right foot but my tenchique was wrong. The zipper was showing from right side, it was all wonky, seams never matched.

And now (happy face)



Invisible zipper with regular zipper foot
Please dont notice the zipper colour, was in a hurry to finish off the skirt.. the fit was so good I couldnt resist to finish it off.
It's a pencil skirt by the way if you are wondering.

Imprevement - I could do better with matching of the circles at both patterns. But I could live with it for now.
If you'd like to have my lessons learnt and tutorial let me know :)

-Preethi.

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Wednesday, 10 June 2015

Sewing - Still a beginner

When I was sewing for my daughter I was churning out stuff so quick. I was new and was willing to try various things and fail several times. For some reason now that I've progressed to sew
for myself I want to know ways and to perfect things. I'm taking several online courses. There is so much I want to do and so little that I'm able to.
To think of it I still don't know most basic stuff, I've a long way before I can come up with something decent for myself.
Sewing Learning basic techniques

Here is my to do list.

1. Draft a sleeveless blouse from the basic bodice for myself.  I'm on the way. I've a good moulage I made for myself so Ithink I should be able to do this one.

2. Draft a skirt sloper.I'm wearing a lot of skirts these days.. Bought so many from east.co.uk. I'm loving them. So I thought why not try sewing them for the summer.

3. Invisible zipper on waist with waistband. Haven't found a good tutorial yet on this. The best and most logical tutorial for the zipper on back from neck facing is this from fashion incubator - Such beautifully calculated for the fold of the fabric. I'd do it slightly differenlty though, instead of a different pattern piece, I'd just move the facing pattern slightly right to compensate for the fold of the main fabric.

Enjoy your week!
Preethi.

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Thursday, 12 March 2015

How to ease sleeve cap by crimping - easy quick and no frustration way

Sleeves are always tricky. Aren't they?

How to ease sleeve cap for set in sleeves


Ever wondered how on earth does the arm hole match up to the circumference of the sleeves?
Why don't sleeve and arm hole match for a garment with no gathered sleeves?
A poorly made set in sleeve can scream homemade, not that I'm ashamed of it though. :)

The sleeve circumference is so much larger that it becomes so difficult to do it without puckers.
Some upto 3 cm. Well it also depends on the type of fabric (knit, woven). You should comfortably be able to rise your arms up.

I have the tried the following options:

1. The gathering way (2 rows or 3 rows) but it always ends up with puckers which almost look like gathers. Yeah! gathering way produces gathers, atleast for me.
2. The finger pressing way (the heat in the fingers does help to manipulate the fabric) but it takes ages to get it right. It's frustrating to say the least. Divide and conquer way it is.
3. Crimping way - The easiest and simplest and quickest and bestest. No more frustration or patience required.


I have read this in a couple of fashion books without pictures so had to do a number of trail and error to get this right. So let's see how to do it. Below is the video.
Set the stitch length to 3. Max is 4 on my machine Guess I forgot to mention in video.

Do you need to finish the sleeve (sleeve seam, finish raw edges and hem) first or after crimping/easing?

I have done both ways and both have pros and cons.
If you finish the sleeve it becomes slightly difficult to crimp because it is difficult to lay flat - you could always remove the tray to make it easier.
But if you don't finish the sleeve then the threads may come in the way when you finish. You could always tie a knot but then when you start to pin it up against the arm hole you may need to adjust.
I'd prefer to finish the sleeve first.




Don't forget to let me know if it worked for you.
After you have eased you'd need to match up the notches or the dots and pin up at few points before you stitch. Sorry should have taken a few pics there, may be next time!
Happy stitching!
Preethi.

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Friday, 28 November 2014

Crimping sleeve ease

Just checking, how have you been?
I don't have a blog post with me, but I can't wait to show you the sleeve I made.
I used the crimping the method. I have seen the crimping method in text books but haven't seen them in blogs or videos. It has taken me quite an effort to get it right. But once I did wow the whole sleeve easing was a breeze.

UPDATE - Blogged with video here - How to ease sleeves crimping way - Easy, simple, Quick - No more frustration

No more 2 rows of gathering - what rubbish!  hahha .. Sorry
Crimping sleeve ease
Sorry about the photo. Just took it late night. I was so thrilled. And I have to show you what I'm making.
Do you use the crimping method?
Do you want a video of it? Pictures may not work here.
Have a good weekend!
Preethi.

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Thursday, 20 November 2014

Half size pattern drafting experience- A skirt



At the pattern cutting course in London we got to work with half size patterns at home - scaled to half size.
Seriously it was such a saver and it allowed me to work when the kids are awake, not having to wait until they sleep to get the entire dining table to myself without being disturbed.
This is something I could do watching tele.

Half size size 12 skirt blocks
 So here it is, I made a pattern myself of this skirt and also tried stitching it. Well the kids were asleep and I couldn’t use the sewing machine but my fingers were ithching to complete so I hand stitched it.
I’m so proud of it, I did show off in the class.


Slash and spread peg skirt
 At first when I started I couldn't even make out which way was top and which bottom when I started to sew but eventually managed.
Half size block skirt peg skirt
 Finished half skirt.. Well I didn't complete the waistband or the hem.. Just wanted to sew to see how it comes together.

Peg Skirt pattern drafting
 Enjoy your weekend.
Preethi.

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