Sunday, 2 February 2014

Calculate pattern pieces - phus phus skirt

Here is a little maths to calculate your pattern pieces. The skirt length is above knees

I'll be making some enhancements to this soon.
a. I'll do this in inches (currently in cm). I prefer cm to inches.
b. I'll make the pattern for any skirt size. (currently skirt length is above knee)
c. I'll also add some standard measurements for all sizes. Now I've added until 5yrs

The pink and yellow columns are for you to key in the values.
Pink - If are not sure of the pink values just use the default ones already in the cells. You'd need to follow the same in the tutorial as well.
Yellow - Key in the yellow cells. If you don't know the yellow cells use the table below as guidance.  I've used waist as 51 cm (12-18m) and waist to knee as 20cm (1.5 to 2 yrs) for my daughter.
Gathered skirt - calculate pattern pieces

 Description of the table below.
Seam allowance - pls see seam allowance
Waist - If you know the waist key in else use the standard measurements table above
Waist to knee - If you know the waist key in else use the standard measurements table above
Elastic width - I'm using a 3 cm elastic width - If you have an elastic of different width key in.
Hem allowance - this is the fold at the bottom of the skirt.
Gathering - You have 3 options (The drop down here doesn't seem to work, so you'll have to manually enter "high/medium/full width".
     Medium - Medium gathers as in here. This is 2 times the width of the waist.
     High - High gathers as in here. This is 3 times the width of the waist.
    Full width - This is the width from selvage to selvage. Made one here. If you select full width you    will need to enter the fabric width.
Fabric width - Use this only if you have selected Full width in gathering column.

You now have the measurements for skirt and waistband. :)

The next step is to buy fabric.
For full steps to create phus phus skirt click phus phus skirt steps

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  1. Hi, I understand the measurement charts but have a question. The waistband front and back sizes are different because the elastic goes in the back only. It will gather up to match the front . But I see you are saying the front and back skirt parts are exactly the same size. Shouldn't the back skirt part be wider then the front like the waistbands are because it will gather up? or am I over-thinking this?
    And thank you for sharing your pattern and tutorials. i love your blog too.

    1. Hi, So sorry again for not replying sooner. Because the back is both gathered and elasticised onto the waistband that's the reason for the thoughts may be. Had I only elasticised the back - yes what you are saying is right. But because I'm both gathering and elasticising the back it creates a no bulk look at the back.
      It is ok if you are using medium gathers but when you heavily gathering it, it does make a difference.

    2. Hi, I just did it exactly how your instructions said and it turned out perfect!! Thank you :-)


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