Crimping sleeve ease

Just checking, how have you been?

I don't have a blog post with me, but I can't wait to show you the sleeve I made.

I used the crimping the method. I have seen the crimping method in text books but haven't seen them in blogs or videos. It has taken me quite an effort to get it right. But once I did wow the whole sleeve easing was a breeze.

UPDATE - Blogged with video here - How to ease sleeves crimping way - Easy, simple, Quick - No more frustration

No more 2 rows of gathering - what rubbish!  hahha .. Sorry

Sorry about the photo. Just took it late night. I was so thrilled. And I have to show you what I'm making.

Do you use the crimping method?

Do you want a video of it? Pictures may not work here.

Have a good weekend!

Preethi.

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Half size pattern drafting experience- A skirt

At the pattern cutting course in London we got to work with half size patterns at home - scaled to half size.

Seriously it was such a saver and it allowed me to work when the kids are awake, not having to wait until they sleep to get the entire dining table to myself without being disturbed.

This is something I could do watching tele.

 So here it is, I made a pattern myself of this skirt and also tried stitching it. Well the kids were asleep and I couldn’t use the sewing machine but my fingers were ithching to complete so I hand stitched it.

I’m so proud of it, I did show off in the class.

 At first when I started I couldn't even make out which way was top and which bottom when I started to sew but eventually managed.

 Finished half skirt.. Well I didn't complete the waistband or the hem.. Just wanted to sew to see how it comes together.

 Enjoy your weekend.
Preethi.

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London Pattern Cutting Course

My husband's cousin came home on a Saturday and I just returned from my course. He asked what course is it. I said Pattern cutting. and he asked me to explain it.
And then he said Oh glorified tailoring :)

And yes it was,expect we did no tailoring.
Size 12 was our basic block from which we did our different variations.
- Dart manipulation of front basic block
- Dark manipulation of back basic block
- Dart manipulation of skirt block
- Collars etc...

We learnt 2 methods -
1. Cut and spread method which is the basic and tedious method
2. Pivot method - A very very good video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbeTqR5GIU0

Being from IT I'd rather prefer do all that on inkscape. Just an ever so slight pencil thickness or the angle of the pencil creates overall 1/2 cm difference. I'd prefer to do all that on my computer.
I'm familiar with inkscape now having drafted a nightie for 2T and a multisize 2T-8T sun dress.
But dart manipulation on the computer is something I need to get familiar with.

It was really a feeling of school - not like a traditional one or rather I can say more like a practical lab style.
Need real leg muscles to stand all day - yeah all day 10 to 5. Only time sat was on the first day where we had a little theory and during our breaks of course.

There was also a take your hands off your face moment in the class. All were stunned, really stunned and couldn't believe it.

Every time I came home and my husband asked what I did I was like - dart manipulation. But really that's what we learnt; I don't know if there is more to pattern cutting or it was just variations. Surely there are many more advanced courses but until I make my pattern for myself and move all those darts I'm not doing any more.

Have a fun filled weekend.
Preethi.

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Why are we different sizes in different shops?

Why are sizes different in different stores? Have you wondered? I’m sure you have?

 At London college of fashion where I’m doing this course we work on  a basic block size 12.

When I first heard we would work on size 12 I was super filled with joy. I’m a size 12 on most days and I  could use the same pattern to draft something for me. Well I thought and Oh boy! When I saw the block

it  looked like it might be a size 4 – that tiny or rather that huge was the size 12 from the shops I was buying from.

So I asked the tutor why this difference. She said there is no standard size 12.

And went on to say if I was going to have my own collection I’d need to study the market to know where I was competing against, study their sizes and position accordingly.

Strange right?

Also there was a buyer on our course and she said the lower end of market sizes are bigger for their size and higher ends are smaller.

What does that mean? Is it right? How crazy right?

Whatever, I bought a tunic from fatface last week and I fit comfortably in a size 10. Oh hoooo. Did that make me happy. Oh yes! I say.

Did anyone else see that size label – No. Does it make any better from outside – No

But you know what I’m talking about. The whole shopping experience gets so depressing when you don’t fit in your so called size in a shop right?

Size: 

Also, how does retail cater to bust cup size? A pear shaped size ? Why do I have to fit in a a size. The clothes need to fit me. :)

So I want to make my own.

Geography:

Also how do they cater to different geographies - Zara sells in India but do they have different measurements for Indian women?

Age :

We are different shaped when we get older. Is that even a consideration for ready to wear?

I tried to find a bit more and I came across - What size am I

Have a look. You can put in your size and it will show you what size for each shop you would need to buy. My sizes range from 12 – 14 - 16.

Next – Size 14

Gap – Size 16

Zara – Size 12

I think this is particularly useful considering the online shopping we do.

It’s a cool website I thought and you’d like too.

Have a good week ahead.

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Pattern Cutting Course in London

Although it may seem that not much is happening it actually is the opposite.
I've taken my interest to the next level.
Remember I always said if my interest last more than a year which it has I'd take this further. It all started Sept 2013 - the incubation and the buying of sewing machine and the browsing online and in shops, inspirations...

I enrolled myself (or rather indulged) onto pattern making classes in London. Its every Saturday for 5 weeks. Its a full on course.. really full on.

There are a variety of people on the course - some tasting whether it is for them, some who are in the industry interacting with pattern cutters and want to understand them, buyers, some who are already on other full time fashion course and some who have done a degree for 3 yrs just to find it was not for them and this is where they want to be. Variety of people from various backgrounds all learning something new. I've completed 2 classes now. The first class was a couple of hours of sit down but after that it was non stop action.

Completley and thorouighly enjoying it. Is it for me? YES it is. It sure is.

My sewing has come down drastically though. I've not created anything new. Sad face.  I've been going out lot more these days and reading a lot more on sewing than actually sewing.

Hold on and there will be lot of updates.

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Pattu Pavade top

Oh! It has been almost a month I've blogged and you won't believe I've nearly forgotten how to create a post - how to size or attach the photos.

One clever thing I did was to document my little notes as I went along my blogging year trying to learn the HOW TO stuff. So it was a matter of minutes or I'd again be scouring the net trying to figure my way out.

Was I busy - nothing unusual

Was I running out of ideas - no, just too many ideas.

Was I sewing - NO

I wasn't sewing enough. The thing is I don't have a sewing room. It's just too much work to set up sewing in a temporary place and then tidy up and do the same again. The thought about the put it away is just putting me off.

But I've started again. So here it is.

My sis in law sent my daughter pattu pavade and it is already a little small, the top is a bit too tight. I can adjust and make the pavade longer but the top I've to sew a new one. So before I buy the proper fabric I thought I'll try to draft a pattern and make one with temporarily.

I did some embroidery as well -  french knots and its cousins. Pleased! 

The thread is mutlicoloured from yellow to orange. It was beautiful. This was the second time ever I was trying embriodery. The first was - the nightie.

The neck here needs to be under stitched. I need to stitch the lining with the clipped edges so the lining is not seen from outside. A learning for me.

I'm taking off tomorrow. Going along with my son on his school farm trip. The school needed some help and so I volunteered.:)

Have a great week!
Preethi.

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Inkscape Nested Pattern making

Seems like ages I haven't looked at my blog or posted anything.
Last week I silently worked on the skorts pattern and that too a nested pattern - NOT easy.
Up until now I'd only made a very simple 2T yoke pattern like the nightie pattern below

and one simple nested pattern like the Mela Summer dress pattern where sizes were combined 5 & 6 T together, likewise 7 & 8T.

This time I thought no short cuts - lets make one for each size. Again NOT easy.

It is really time consuming. How do they do it?

Marking, Spreading, angles, - there is so much to think about and I'm learning inkscape myself and there aren't many useful tutorials out there.

Considering that I'm happy with what I've done.

Only next thing is to div it up so they can accommodated into A4s for printing at home or in office. Shhh  :)

Coming Soon! Promise.

Have a lovely rest of week.

Preethi

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Skorts Pattern First Try

Hope you are having a great week. My week is really busy work wise. Next few days or rather months is going to be quite like this. Work and maintaining the blog at the same time - demands so much from you, but who is complaining on the blog side. That's how addicted people become I guess.

I made the skorts or rather culottes or rather divided skirt.
When I had asked about a couple of months back on which pattern you'd like amongst the  nightie or the divided skirt most of you voted for the nightie and some showed interest on the divided skirt. The divided skirt then was pleated now I've modified the pattern to look like a flared skirt - mostly inspired by the circle skirt vintage dress I made with the open back. I loved the way it turned out. I loved the way I hemmed the dress using the double fold hem tutorial.

I used the cutting layout I described here.I've thought about the cutting so much really - for the first dress I made there was no uneven hem at all. I'm not sure if it is because of the fabric or my cutting layout.Hahaha. Enjoy some of the clicks showing off the features of the skirts.

Even if it flies in the air it will not flash the nappy.

You can see in between the stitching line.

I put a small ribbon on the back to differentiate between front and back. It's like trousers - front cannot be back and back cannot be front.

This shows the inside of the skorts - my MIL holding it for me.

The outside looks like simple flared skirt

There it is - just like a normal skirt.

Notice the middle stitching line - just off the center on the left.

Doesn't show the nappy even when sitting.

Eating blackberries, MIL picking them.

See clearly the divided skirt - still doesn't show the nappy.

Now you can clearly see the division. I should have pressed first.

At least the hem I should have pressed. Was in hurry to take the pics before it became cloudy again. Glad I did.

Enjoy the last few days of the week. Or alteast try :). I'm.

-Preethi.

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Bias Cutting layout

I've been thinking a lot on how to cut my culottes? I have to head to the library to learn more really, but I just thought I'll show you whats running in my mind. I could be totally wrong or so obvious - I don't know.

Above is how originally I drafted the pattern. Now how do I actually cut the fabric? the dreaded BIAS stretch? Not only does it require 1-2 days to be hung but also it does change shape all along.
How do I avoid stretching? It really annoys me to see the fabric stretched out at the hem. Here are my options as I thought about them:

OPTION 1: Culottes cutting layout:

I thought about cutting it like a normal skirt or a trouser.

Upon thinking hard I realised that in between the center seam and side seam stretch is very much likely. So how else?

OPTION 2: Culottes cutting layout:

I realised with this layout that the stretch was less likely. I understand the amount of stretch totally depends on the type of fabric but was just trying to attempt if it could be avoided. The pattern will still require it to be hung may be overnight, but the stretch may be less likely. Lets see. :)

Have a good week.
Preethi.

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Culottes or skorts?

I'm not sure what they are called - Culottes or skorts or rather just divided skirt.
I'm trying to draft one for my 2 year old. I want to make most of the summer before its gone you see.
Although it is just for me, I prefer to use inkscape - it just makes the slash and spread so easy and ofcourse I try to avoid paper unless its not possible.
If it comes out alright I'll share with you all.
Are you interested in this pattern at all?  I've tried drawing it here. But I've  changed my mind since. After the success of red polka dots dress hem I feel brave to attempt this one - rather more circular one.
Are you interested in a peek into my inkscaping?

Have a good Sunday!

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A milestone for WIDI, Thank you!!

I'm super happy! I've got 4 reasons to celebrate my friends and share with you

One - Reached 100 likes on my facebook page and 90% are the kindest people that have found me online and liked me. isn't that amazing? I cannot believe it having no sewing friends; it feels great!
I'm now friends with 2 amazing sewing bloggers - Jaya from Jaya's place and Sindhu from Varnatantu.

Two: I've reached 550+ downloads on the Summer dress pdf pattern (that is what I've been able to track) and 450+ on the nightie pdf pattern.  The rest of the free patterns are more of a DIY so are not measured by downloads.

Three: I'm being featured in lots of places: Craftgossip for the summer dress variation, twisted elastic and many many more, pinterest, isewfree, premeditatedleftovers, naptimecreations and many many more. Thank you!
I get about 2000 views a day these days, peaks at time to 3k-4k - must be due to the summer dress pattern
Google knows me as well, I just need to get more friendly and share more with google. :) The organic search is slowly increasing .

Four: The best part and really the best was when Patty made this dress out of the summer dress pattern. Isn't it cute? The colours are so cute. Thanks a million Patty for sharing.

Wish I had a giveaway. I should arrange for something, I know, I have to figure this out though.

Love you all
Preethi.

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Summer dress pattern variation

I've today a variation of the summer dress pattern. Read variation as easy or lazy. Instead of having 3 tiers for the skirt I made a really quick dress with just one tier. It took about 1/2 an hour to sew this up. This is the easiest project I've made so far I guess. The skirts I made were far more complex than this.

You can make it as long or short as you want. Instead of having the 3 tiers like for the tiered summer dress we will make only 1. we will only use the measurements for "1 front" and "1 back" from the table below. The height(breadth of the tier) is totally upto you.  I went for above knee but you could do a top version as well.
Also remember that the 1 front and 1 back pieces are of varying heights - this helps with the elastic at the back.

Cutting layout is below:

Follow the sewing instructions same as the summer dress pattern except you have lot less work to do. You'd basically be skipping the entire entire step 4 - . How to layer skirt and join bodice. You'd need to hem it the regular way though.

I used a contrast and interesting fabric on the inside for the lining and the straps.

 Love the fountain. :)

 I did try to match up the prints of the front and back but didn't realise I was cutting off the turtles back and heads.

Enjoy your week!

Preethi.

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