Thursday, 10 April 2014

Nirma skirt - 2 ways to insert elastic

I'll here show you 2 ways to insert elastic - the first is done  less than a minute and the second is more traditional way.

For full instructions to make a Nirma skirt pls goto NIRMA SKIRT FREE PATTERN.

1. Direct way (Cannot be tested before finishing, need to know the size before hand, done in less than a minute)

I've used  this method for all the nirma skirts I've sewn.

Detailed steps below:
 1. zig zag finish or with serger finish the raw edges of the elastic separately and then sew 1cm from the edge. Generally when I use this method the elastic streches out a bit so I trim the elastic another 2 cm before starting out. It might depend on the elastic quality though Im not sure.
 2. Flatten the elastic by sewing over the seams. This keep it flat in the waistband.
 3. Mark the center and quarter points on the elastic and start to align.
 4. Align and pin the side seam with the seam of the elastic by turning under 1 cm.
 5. Align all the 8 point and pin with 1 cm turned under the wrong side ie wrong sides together with elastic in between.
 6. This is how it looks - More fabric between the elastic. This way to do involves more pinning than sewing when compared to first way.
 7. Now fold under with elastic towards wrong side with elastic tight inside.
 8. Do it all the way.
 9. Now pull the waistband and see if it pulls all the way. Sometimes what happens is there is more elastic than fabric then this causes a big problem. There is no way to adjust, so its best to pull now and see if its ok.
Yeah, I haven't yet removed the gathering stitches:)
 10. Pulling elastic with both hands in opposite direction sew on the waistband & elastic together at the inner side of the waistband.
 11. No twist elastic in a minute.
12. Looks neat and now after sewing so many skirts I know the measurements for it was a breeze.











2. Phus phus skirt way (Foolproof, Time consuming, can be tested before finishing) 

Steps 1 and 3 are the traditional way to insert. Steps 1 and 4 help it not twisting.
1. sew the waistband first
2. Top stitch the top edge of the waistband
3. insert elastic with a safety pin (all over since this is not a flat front skirt).
4. Pull elastic with waistband and stitch in middle.

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