Sew skirt and join bodice

Let's aim to finish the skirt today! We are almost there. Promise.
Have you sewn the summer dress bodice yet? If not please do.

For the FREE PATTERN download with full step by step instructions refer Mela Summer dress free pattern.

1. Take the "2 front" and back and "3 front" and back pieces.
I refer a lot of 1 front and 2 back etc. Refer this link to know which piece I'm talking about

2. Sew right sides together and finish the raw edges using a serger or if like me you don't have one use a zig zag stitch

3. To the "3 front" and "3 back" tube that we created, choose one of the longer ends as border and start to sew the binding to the wrong side as shown. If the binding is not enough, leave a 5cm tail before back stitching. Take the new binding and pinch together, mark the lines.

4. Sew the ends together

5. Press flat the opening and continue to sew.

6. Now its time to attach the  tier 2 to the tier3. Mark the center and quarter points. Gather the tier 3 and right sides together attach tier 2 and 3. For full tutorial please refer How to create perfect gathers

7. This is how it looks. Now again gather tier 2

8. Now its time to attach tier 2 to tier 1.

9. This is how to attach it right sides together.

10. A closer view

11. There it is!!

12. Now its time for the shoulder straps.Fold over the smaller raw edge wrong sides together

13. Fold the longer sides inwards.

14. Fold again to seal the raw edges.

15. Sew over. Do the same for the shoulder straps accordingly to lengths provided.

16. For the loops cut two 7 cm each.

17. Pin as shown

18. Pin it a third away from the side seam, not on elastic but below it.

19. Use small zig zag stitches.

20. Sew the straps on the points marked in the epattern

21. Sew the loops

22. This is how it looks. I tie a knot so the straps don't come out of loop.

23. Done!

24. Iron it

25. This is how the inside looks.

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Sew bodice - Summer dress free pattern

Now that you have downloaded the pattern cut your pattern pieces its time to sew. Today let's sew the bodice.

 1. Take the front bodice, bodice lining and "1 front" piece. Please note I'll be using a lot of "1front" "1 back" etc.. all in line with the cutting layout described in the cutting layout

 2. Mark the center and quarter points for both the bodice and 1 front. I always mark the center and quarter point, this helps to align to make even gathers. Sew 3 rows of gathering on top of 1 front. Don't be lazy - dont sew 1 or 2 basting stitches. For full tutorial please refer this tutorial that compares different gathering  and the outcome.

 3. I like to gather it smaller than the bodice so I can ease it later.

 4. Pin the wrong side of the 1 front with right side of the front lining.

5. Now joing the right side of 1 front with right side of the bodice.

 6. Another view to show right and wrong sides.

 7. Yet another view while I sew it.

 8. While sewing try to keep the 1 front piece perpendicular to the sewing line. This way you will not get gathers facing all directions. For full details, tips & tricks refer to gathering tutorial

 9. Remove the gathering stitches with a seam ripper. I usually pull them out and only use seam ripper for the stubborn ones but if you have delicate fabric you'd need to be careful

 10. I then cut off 2 layers of fabric close the seam to reduce bulk.

 11. Here it is. Press it and the front bodice is done.

 12. Now take the 1 back piece.

 13. Fold over 1.5 cm (the seam allowance) and then fold again (For 2T fold 3.3 cm, for 3T fold 3.3 cm, for 4T fold 3.2 cm, for 5-6T fold 3.2, for 7-8T fold 3cm)

14. Sew as shown in white

 15. Insert elastic with a safety pin as mentioned in the chart

 16. Pin elastic on both ends. At this point in time you could join the front and back bodice and try it on if it fits and you could adjust the elastic accordingly

 17. This is how it looks.

 18. Pin the bias cut tape (careful not the straight grain tape) to the inside of the front bodice and sew over the creased line.

 19. Turn it to front and pin.

 20. Sew on front.

 21. Sew the front and back bodice togather. The back will be a bit smaller so it fits snug.
Mine is smaller than 2T as I cut the elastic 1 cm less.

The front of the bodice. That's it for today. Let's finish the dress tomorrow. Are you with me yet? Any questions please ask.

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Download epattern and cut fabric for summer dress

Before we start, you'd need to know
- What is fold, grain
- What is bias, selvage
Click on the above link if you need a refresh.

This is part of the sewing series for the Summer dress FREE PATTERN with full step by step instructions for Mela Summer dress free pattern

DOWNLOAD INDIAN SUMMER FREE PATTERN HERE 
Save it to your computer.  Open in Adobe Reader. File->Print.
Select "no scaling" or "100% scaling" or "actual size"  before printing. After you have printed measure the 4cm * 4cm with your scale or measuring tape to ensure it is printed correctly.

If you don't have a printer like me then use my way to print it off the screen -  trace the pattern off the screen.

If you need to brush up on what is fold or grain refer this tutorial

 

Below is the measurements for the skirt tiers.

To lay the rectangles onto the fabric here is the layout. If there is any pattern on the fabric make sure they are seamless when you join the front pieces to the back.

For the binding cut it as below. I'll also show the way I did it. The one cut on the bias is for the bodice. Rest are for straps and skirt hem. They don't need to be cut on the bias. Just saves me buying lots of fabric for the binding. I recommend you read full explanation of bias showing handloom photos to see why and where one would need to cut on the bias.
If your main fabric is very lightweight then you may want to interface the fabric just like we did for the phus phus skirt or you could you some of your binding fabric if that is thick enough like we did for the this dress or this very light weight fabric.
The lengths for the elastic and binding are below. You don't need to join the straightgrain binding now. We'll do it at the time of sewing

Layout to cut is below:

 Fold the corners over to make a square and mark it.

 Since the bias binding tape I'm using needs 3.6 cm strips, I'm measured 1.8 cm on both sides of the line drawn and cut it.

 I used a bias binder using my tutorial. In the same video I also show how to make it without bias tape maker.

With all strips make the binding ready to use. The smallest of them I'm sure would be for the straps be it any size. So measure and cut the straps.
I don't measure and join for the binding on the skirt. I just join whilst sewing the skirt hem.
That's it for today. All cut and ready to sew.

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Supplies- mela Indian Summer dress

Hi All, here is the list of supplies you need to sew the summer dress. I've included where I've bought each one.

Sewing Machine	I have a Janome basic sewing machine- Janome J3-18 Sewing Machine. It has  straight stitch, zig zag stitch, applique stitch and comes with a buttonhole foot which is very handy.
Scissors	I had the little one and the larger fabric shears I bought - 5 Star Tailors Shears 210mm
Measuring tape	Sewing / Tailors Tape Measure 150cm - PINK
Seam ripper	Came with Gutermann Sewing Thread Kit. Can't live without this.
Pins	Hemline Coloured Plastic Headed Pins, 34mm, Value Pk of 200
Thread	Real cheap one - WMA 24 Assorted Colors Polyester Sewing Thread-Pack of 24 (does the job for me, breaks at times - a very good value for the kind of projects I'm doing) and other Gutermann (really strong but expensive) Gutermann Sewing Thread Kit
Bobbin	4 came with sewing machine
Fabric	Bought the binding fabric from local fabric shop and the pink fabric from John Lewis. - couldn't find the one I bought in store.
Elastic	Bought them from local fabric shop.
Tailors chalk	Tailor's Chalk Triangle - Set of 3 Red, White, Blue

Thanks for reading.

Preethi.

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