Why are we different sizes in different shops?

Why are sizes different in different stores? Have you wondered? I’m sure you have?

 At London college of fashion where I’m doing this course we work on  a basic block size 12.

When I first heard we would work on size 12 I was super filled with joy. I’m a size 12 on most days and I  could use the same pattern to draft something for me. Well I thought and Oh boy! When I saw the block

it  looked like it might be a size 4 – that tiny or rather that huge was the size 12 from the shops I was buying from.

So I asked the tutor why this difference. She said there is no standard size 12.

And went on to say if I was going to have my own collection I’d need to study the market to know where I was competing against, study their sizes and position accordingly.

Strange right?

Also there was a buyer on our course and she said the lower end of market sizes are bigger for their size and higher ends are smaller.

What does that mean? Is it right? How crazy right?

Whatever, I bought a tunic from fatface last week and I fit comfortably in a size 10. Oh hoooo. Did that make me happy. Oh yes! I say.

Did anyone else see that size label – No. Does it make any better from outside – No

But you know what I’m talking about. The whole shopping experience gets so depressing when you don’t fit in your so called size in a shop right?

Size: 

Also, how does retail cater to bust cup size? A pear shaped size ? Why do I have to fit in a a size. The clothes need to fit me. :)

So I want to make my own.

Geography:

Also how do they cater to different geographies - Zara sells in India but do they have different measurements for Indian women?

Age :

We are different shaped when we get older. Is that even a consideration for ready to wear?

I tried to find a bit more and I came across - What size am I

Have a look. You can put in your size and it will show you what size for each shop you would need to buy. My sizes range from 12 – 14 - 16.

Next – Size 14

Gap – Size 16

Zara – Size 12

I think this is particularly useful considering the online shopping we do.

It’s a cool website I thought and you’d like too.

Have a good week ahead.

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Pattern Cutting Course in London

Although it may seem that not much is happening it actually is the opposite.
I've taken my interest to the next level.
Remember I always said if my interest last more than a year which it has I'd take this further. It all started Sept 2013 - the incubation and the buying of sewing machine and the browsing online and in shops, inspirations...

I enrolled myself (or rather indulged) onto pattern making classes in London. Its every Saturday for 5 weeks. Its a full on course.. really full on.

There are a variety of people on the course - some tasting whether it is for them, some who are in the industry interacting with pattern cutters and want to understand them, buyers, some who are already on other full time fashion course and some who have done a degree for 3 yrs just to find it was not for them and this is where they want to be. Variety of people from various backgrounds all learning something new. I've completed 2 classes now. The first class was a couple of hours of sit down but after that it was non stop action.

Completley and thorouighly enjoying it. Is it for me? YES it is. It sure is.

My sewing has come down drastically though. I've not created anything new. Sad face.  I've been going out lot more these days and reading a lot more on sewing than actually sewing.

Hold on and there will be lot of updates.

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Pattu Pavade top

Oh! It has been almost a month I've blogged and you won't believe I've nearly forgotten how to create a post - how to size or attach the photos.

One clever thing I did was to document my little notes as I went along my blogging year trying to learn the HOW TO stuff. So it was a matter of minutes or I'd again be scouring the net trying to figure my way out.

Was I busy - nothing unusual

Was I running out of ideas - no, just too many ideas.

Was I sewing - NO

I wasn't sewing enough. The thing is I don't have a sewing room. It's just too much work to set up sewing in a temporary place and then tidy up and do the same again. The thought about the put it away is just putting me off.

But I've started again. So here it is.

My sis in law sent my daughter pattu pavade and it is already a little small, the top is a bit too tight. I can adjust and make the pavade longer but the top I've to sew a new one. So before I buy the proper fabric I thought I'll try to draft a pattern and make one with temporarily.

I did some embroidery as well -  french knots and its cousins. Pleased! 

The thread is mutlicoloured from yellow to orange. It was beautiful. This was the second time ever I was trying embriodery. The first was - the nightie.

The neck here needs to be under stitched. I need to stitch the lining with the clipped edges so the lining is not seen from outside. A learning for me.

I'm taking off tomorrow. Going along with my son on his school farm trip. The school needed some help and so I volunteered.:)

Have a great week!
Preethi.

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Inkscape Nested Pattern making

Seems like ages I haven't looked at my blog or posted anything.
Last week I silently worked on the skorts pattern and that too a nested pattern - NOT easy.
Up until now I'd only made a very simple 2T yoke pattern like the nightie pattern below

and one simple nested pattern like the Mela Summer dress pattern where sizes were combined 5 & 6 T together, likewise 7 & 8T.

This time I thought no short cuts - lets make one for each size. Again NOT easy.

It is really time consuming. How do they do it?

Marking, Spreading, angles, - there is so much to think about and I'm learning inkscape myself and there aren't many useful tutorials out there.

Considering that I'm happy with what I've done.

Only next thing is to div it up so they can accommodated into A4s for printing at home or in office. Shhh  :)

Coming Soon! Promise.

Have a lovely rest of week.

Preethi

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Skorts Pattern First Try

Hope you are having a great week. My week is really busy work wise. Next few days or rather months is going to be quite like this. Work and maintaining the blog at the same time - demands so much from you, but who is complaining on the blog side. That's how addicted people become I guess.

I made the skorts or rather culottes or rather divided skirt.
When I had asked about a couple of months back on which pattern you'd like amongst the  nightie or the divided skirt most of you voted for the nightie and some showed interest on the divided skirt. The divided skirt then was pleated now I've modified the pattern to look like a flared skirt - mostly inspired by the circle skirt vintage dress I made with the open back. I loved the way it turned out. I loved the way I hemmed the dress using the double fold hem tutorial.

I used the cutting layout I described here.I've thought about the cutting so much really - for the first dress I made there was no uneven hem at all. I'm not sure if it is because of the fabric or my cutting layout.Hahaha. Enjoy some of the clicks showing off the features of the skirts.

Even if it flies in the air it will not flash the nappy.

You can see in between the stitching line.

I put a small ribbon on the back to differentiate between front and back. It's like trousers - front cannot be back and back cannot be front.

This shows the inside of the skorts - my MIL holding it for me.

The outside looks like simple flared skirt

There it is - just like a normal skirt.

Notice the middle stitching line - just off the center on the left.

Doesn't show the nappy even when sitting.

Eating blackberries, MIL picking them.

See clearly the divided skirt - still doesn't show the nappy.

Now you can clearly see the division. I should have pressed first.

At least the hem I should have pressed. Was in hurry to take the pics before it became cloudy again. Glad I did.

Enjoy the last few days of the week. Or alteast try :). I'm.

-Preethi.

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Bias Cutting layout

I've been thinking a lot on how to cut my culottes? I have to head to the library to learn more really, but I just thought I'll show you whats running in my mind. I could be totally wrong or so obvious - I don't know.

Above is how originally I drafted the pattern. Now how do I actually cut the fabric? the dreaded BIAS stretch? Not only does it require 1-2 days to be hung but also it does change shape all along.
How do I avoid stretching? It really annoys me to see the fabric stretched out at the hem. Here are my options as I thought about them:

OPTION 1: Culottes cutting layout:

I thought about cutting it like a normal skirt or a trouser.

Upon thinking hard I realised that in between the center seam and side seam stretch is very much likely. So how else?

OPTION 2: Culottes cutting layout:

I realised with this layout that the stretch was less likely. I understand the amount of stretch totally depends on the type of fabric but was just trying to attempt if it could be avoided. The pattern will still require it to be hung may be overnight, but the stretch may be less likely. Lets see. :)

Have a good week.
Preethi.

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Culottes or skorts?

I'm not sure what they are called - Culottes or skorts or rather just divided skirt.
I'm trying to draft one for my 2 year old. I want to make most of the summer before its gone you see.
Although it is just for me, I prefer to use inkscape - it just makes the slash and spread so easy and ofcourse I try to avoid paper unless its not possible.
If it comes out alright I'll share with you all.
Are you interested in this pattern at all?  I've tried drawing it here. But I've  changed my mind since. After the success of red polka dots dress hem I feel brave to attempt this one - rather more circular one.
Are you interested in a peek into my inkscaping?

Have a good Sunday!

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