Butterick B5526 - My first attempt at a collared shirt

Butterick B5526 - My first attempt at a collared shirt.

The most obedient fabric I've ever worked with on a pattern which turned out to be the most toughest pattern I've worked. I knew it would be challenging for me - the collars were the only reason I bought pattern. I've been wanted to try and learn collars since about a year now. Finally!!

The fabric is a beauuuutiful chambray fabric, for anyone just trying to learn to sew this is the best fabric to start with. Really! It stitches beautifully, irons and steams so well. I thought the sleeves may be challenging as it didn't have much give for me to manipulate the fabric, but using the crimping methods - it was a breeze.

Seam ripper was my best friend here...The collars - which one to interface, which to put on top of which one.. got them all wrong twice.. and once I even topstitched the whole collar to realise it didn't fit the shirt neck- I'd had all wrong possible with it. I'm still very happy with the way the collars have turned out.

I thought the buttonholes will take much longer and somehow I had a feeling that it would pull along the buttons diagonally - but surprisingly it was done in 10 minutes - buttonholes and buttons.

You can see some press lines on the bust - finally time to buy a tailor's ham I thought.

And if you are a regular here you'll notice the skirt is from the same fabric I made a cape coat for my daughter more than a year back.

Pattern Description: 

Butterick Ladies Easy Sewing Pattern 5526 Shirts & Blouses Tops view D

 I made the pattern D version with sleeves from E. It has princess seams and buttons down the front with full sleeves and cuff.




Fabric Used: 

Pastel Cotton Chambray Dress Fabric

Pattern Sizing: The pattern I selected came with max of size 12. The bust measurement on the pattern inside for size 12 was 97 - same as my bust. I wanted ease on the shirt so on the sides I simply increased by half a cm. It has still turned out to be too big for my liking. I'm still ok with the body but the sleeves are just too baggy. 
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done? Yes it did.  

Were the instructions easy to follow? Now when I read back they are, but when I started out it was all greek for me. I had to read over and over look at various books and videos to get it in my head and still there are so many mistakes I've done. Nothing wrong with the instructions, but as it was my first ever shirt it took a long time to get it right.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I didn't like the pleat on the shirt cuff part. The sleeve is just too baggy, otherwise its good. I might just make a size 12 next time, but sleeves I'll need to draft my own. 
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: 
- Increased side seams by half a cm
- Decreased the length of shirt and sleeves by 5 cm.

Have a great week!
Preethi

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Linen Butterick B6182 Top

A fabric that you can't go wrong with combined with a top pattern that is so forgiving - what do you get? A super simple tidy clean top that is so versatile - it could be dressed in several ways.

I'm already dreaming of making another one in a silk - I was looking at something like this silk fabric.

Pattern Description: B6182 A I made the pattern A Top version. It has loose fit with horizontal darts with sleeve bands

Fabric Used: Linen Ivory fabric which presses beautifully - has a nice crisp feel and look.

Pattern Sizing: size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done? yes, think so.  

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, it works so easy and beautifully till you hot the armband section. I knew this won’t be that simple. Nothing impossible or difficult but just needed careful thought.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? 

What I like and the reason I bought the pattern is the armband and center seam line which added a depth to a plain solid colour.


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: None

Would you sew it again? Yes, may be a silk

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Culottes in Triple Crepe

A simple pattern made with some gorgeous fabric is a WIN in every way I think. Don't you?

The fabric is so lovely - this deep red triple crepe from minerva crafts is just so gorgeous, I didn't want to cut it at all.. No really its so gorgeous the fall is so graceful.
I want even sure after I bought the fabric is culottes is the right choice.
I used Butterick B6179 which states fast and easy and it is really. Having had not much experience in using patterns, I really wasn't sure. 
I have used a pattern before but never went to finish it. This was the first time I've finished something that is made from a ready pattern not made by me. 

Pattern Description: B6179 D I made the pattern D Culottes version. It has a zipper at the back, side pockets, no lining, waistband. 

Fabric Used: Triple crepe in Red.

Pattern Sizing: This was the most disappointing part.I bought the pattern sizing 6-14. My waist is 80.6 cm. I measured the waist on the pattern by walking the pattern; the finished garment didn't mention of waist at all. The waist after measuring on the pattern pieces of size 14 (waist on patterns 5+2+6+4 times 2  minus the seam allowances) gave 78.8. This was 1.8 less than the largest size on the pattern. So I added 0.5 cm on side seams of pattern 2 and 4. Well I like no ease on the waist so just went by my waist measurement.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done? More than I guess. I've made 2 now and would make more.  

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I didnt like the back zipper. Could work for a skirt but definitely not culottes. May be I wouldnt use them on skirt as well if I'm honest. The details on the flap for waistband werent very clear.  But then I didnt read it very well. I had recently made a skirt where it worked beautifully so just followed what I already knew.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Well….I made a muslin first and I looked like a ball... so I wasnt really sure.. Well you know how calico stands, I still went ahead and glad I did. 

1. I changed the back zip to side.

2. Instead of 2 pockets I just made 1.

3. Did my own waistband and attaching to the skirt.

4. Used buckrum for waistband for interfacing.

5. Increased size as I'm larger than largest size on the pattern I bought.

Would you sew it again? Yes, Yes, Yes.

 I used the fabric selvages as the waistband as that is the strongest part of the fabric. This was something I learnt from the Islander sewing systems.The wrong side is not turned over so I dont have to worry about accuracy here.

 The waistband is thick enough to hold the heavy skirt.. yes the skirt may atleast be 2kilos.

 Zip - Ok I may have sewn alteast 30-40 zips in the last 2 months and now I have all the info to give the out to you. wait for this ;)

 This was how I lay out my fabric.I used paper underneath for extra support whist cutting and it turned out beautiful.

 I used washi tapes to mark the wrong side of the fabric. This crepe is so similar on both sides its hard to make out and with cutting layout having on folds and on single layer of fabric its important to mark the right and wrong. 

 I used these amazing pens that just vanish with steam.. Its so amazing you should give it a go.

 I used buckrum from my local fabric shop and stiched them on the inside of the waistband. What it does is just amazing.

I made 2 rows of stitching.
Really pleased with how it has turned out. Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Preethi.

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Vionett - Queen of bias; where did I go wrong

I know what is bias. I've closely seen how cloth is hand woven, done it myself on the loom. My husband comes from Paramakudi where the main source of income is hand weaving.
When you see how cloth is woven you understand how bias works, why there is no stretch on lengthwise grain and some on cross and lots on bias. A representation is below

What is bias, cross wise grain and lengthwise grain

I made a bias skirt (self drafted) on muslin and it looked great, well almost..

Self drafted Bias skirt

I used the same pattern and made the same using faux suede and everything went downhill.. I did staystitch immediately after cutting, no idea how it stretched out.

Bias Skirt Stretch

Any help?

I've been learning a lot about bias ever since I made the gathered circle skirt for my daughter -

You can see on the sides how it has stretched out. One things for sure - whoever said circle skirts are easy are just lying.

An excellent video here on bias -
How much gravity has to do with bias - Its such an interesting watch .
We would think of bias as given, but so much thought has gone into it before it has come into textbooks

Madeleine Vionnet- Queen of bias cut - inspiration for designers like Chanel, Lagerfield, Valentino

And here is an excellent file for keeps on bias. A little over the head for me at the moment for its for keeps.. slowly one I'll get the grips to it -

45 degree magic 

Enjoy!
Preethi.

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Self drafted Bias Skirt - scary!!

Bias is something that always scares me... My first experience was the gathered circle skirt I made for my daughter.

You can see below at the front how it is stretched out.

Here again at the side you can see how it is stretched out.

All over the internet there is circle skirt as a simple skirt- but seriously how ? How can one understand bias and its handling.  I think skirts to start with are simple gathered skirts.

I've made a bias skirt pattern for myself and made it out of calico, this calico is bit thick so the fall is not very apparant. Hopefully the faux suede will do a good fall.

The material has a great fall, so wait and see..To test the fall - you can see this post to buy a drapey fabric.

Enjoy your weekend :)
Preethi

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Conquered the invisble zipper

Ahhh!! Finally conquered the zipper..
Do you dread the invisible zipper or any zipper? I DID. Not anymore

I had so many questions -

Invisible Zipper Issues

Which way to place the zipper?
Do I need to iron my zipper?
If so, what setting?
Which foot to use? Worst my machine doesnt even support the invisible zipper foot.
Use tape or pins?
Baste?
Can't get close enough. What to do?
The seams at waist don't match up, what to do?
The neck now is one up one down, what to do?
Why is the invisble zipper visible from the correct side?
Ok, I know the zipper, what about facing?

I was once at this stage - Zipper foot not working - The needle went straight down the zipper teeth.

And then at this -

where I got the right foot but my tenchique was wrong. The zipper was showing from right side, it was all wonky, seams never matched.

And now (happy face)

Please dont notice the zipper colour, was in a hurry to finish off the skirt.. the fit was so good I couldnt resist to finish it off.
It's a pencil skirt by the way if you are wondering.

Imprevement - I could do better with matching of the circles at both patterns. But I could live with it for now.
If you'd like to have my lessons learnt and tutorial let me know :)

-Preethi.

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