Tuesday, 4 August 2015

Vionett - Queen of bias; where did I go wrong

I know what is bias. I've closely seen how cloth is hand woven, done it myself on the loom. My husband comes from Paramakudi where the main source of income is hand weaving.
When you see how cloth is woven you understand how bias works, why there is no stretch on lengthwise grain and some on cross and lots on bias. A representation is below

What is bias, cross wise grain and lengthwise grain

What is bias, cross grain and lengthwise grain

I made a bias skirt (self drafted) on muslin and it looked great, well almost..

Self drafted Bias skirt

Self drafted bias skirt

DIY skirt

I used the same pattern and made the same using faux suede and everything went downhill.. I did staystitch immediately after cutting, no idea how it stretched out.

Bias Skirt Stretch

Any help?

Bias skirt stretched out issue

Bias waist stretched out

I've been learning a lot about bias ever since I made the gathered circle skirt for my daughter -

gathered circle skirt

You can see on the sides how it has stretched out. One things for sure - whoever said circle skirts are easy are just lying.

An excellent video here on bias -
How much gravity has to do with bias - Its such an interesting watch .
We would think of bias as given, but so much thought has gone into it before it has come into textbooks

Madeleine Vionnet- Queen of bias cut - inspiration for designers like Chanel, Lagerfield, Valentino

And here is an excellent file for keeps on bias. A little over the head for me at the moment for its for keeps.. slowly one I'll get the grips to it -

45 degree magic 


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  1. Wow, I can't believe how different the two skirts fit. I'm not familiar with dress making, but I know that bias seams and cuts really make a huge difference in quilting. You've shared really interesting info for sewists!!

    1. Hi Preeti, I'm learning a lot about bias these days and honestly the more I learn bias only scares me more... One day :)

  2. Hi Preeti, it seems you have a sewing gnome chugging out all those wonderful outfits :-)
    I think the problem is the faux suede and how it feeds under the presser foot. try a teflon foot or tape some masking tape under the foot and also tape some on the underside of the seam allowance and sew a 4" swatch. measure it again and see if it has stretched.

  3. Madeleine Vionett! I remember studying about her awesome bias designs made on dolls... One of my favourite designers! Nice post, dear!


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